Founder of Bonneterie Chanteclair
Bonneterie Chanteclair, Troyes, France
Historically, the influence of Troyes on the knitwear industry began in the 1820s, reaching its peak in the mid-twentieth century. Many knitters have given birth to famous French brands such as Lacoste, Petit Bateau and Dim. Although for several decades there has been a strong delocalization of the local knitting industry, many companies still remain, including Chanteclair. On the occasion of this presentation of MOY t-shirts with Made In Town, we spoke with Yannick Chanteclair, founder and CEO of the knitting company Chanteclair, based in Troyes since 1973.
Pascal Gautrand: How was the meeting with Yasco Otomo, designer of MOY?
Yannick Chanteclair: Yasco was introduced to us during a Japanese textile fair. She wanted to develop a small collection of eight rather elaborate t-shirt models, available in different fabrics and colors. Following this first meeting, she came to visit us in Troyes. It is very important for designers to come to work directly in the workshop. This way, they see how we work and this reassures them.
PG: Do you often make collections for independent designers?
YC: We occasionally work with young designers, it depends on our technical possibilities. It takes a lot of time and effort to achieve individual prototypes, a lot of space in our workshop and mobilization of all our resources to achive models and patterns.
PG: Do you ever have less busy periods?
YC: Initially Yasco wanted his samples made for January, but this was not possible for us as we have a small operation: about four or five people (designers, embroiderers, sample cutters, etc.). As a result, we had to postpone to February. For us, the idle periods are April through May and September through October. We have to adapt to the calendar of our customers, we do not choose, but it is beneficial use the idle periods for the implementation of new samples.
Made in Mazamet. Made in Town founder, consultant and teacher, he is graduated from the Institut Français de la Mode and used to be a boarder in the fashion design division at the Villa Medici in Rome. He develops a reflexion, mainly in the fashion field, about the manufacturing culture. His approach, oriented towards the promotion of know-how, expresses through writing, video and fashion design. As a consultant, he especially collaborates with Première Vision for the organization of Maison d’Exceptions: a dedicated area about fabric know-how within the show and for the online magazine Maison d’Exceptions whose he is editor.
Rome, capital of 21st century craftmanship? From the moment Silvia Venturini Fendi was appointed chairman of AltaRoma, in March 2010, both Rome and fashion have found a precious defender for the contemporary craftsmanship values. From July 2010, the Fendi family heiress decided to promote LIMITED / UNLIMITED, an exhibition that has now become a biannual encounter between creation and know-hows.
Made in Town is home to the first collection of Moy, a line of t-shirts drawing on the skills of Chanteclair. Designed by Yasco Otomo – a Japanese fashion designer now living in Paris for more than a decade – the collection revisits the French tradition of knitwear.
In order to promote the know-how and characteristics of the tapestry from Aubusson, the county town of the French region of Creuse, Made in Town conducted a series of three documentary videos at the request of the International City of the Tapestry and Woven art, in partnership with l’Institut français de la mode and with the support of the Fondation d’entreprise Hermès.